Flooring Installation Guide

This guide covers the installation basics for click-lock LVP, click-lock laminate and engineered hardwood. Always follow the manufacturer's spec sheet that ships with each box.

Before you begin

• Acclimate the boxes flat in the install room for 48 hours.
• Subfloor must be flat within 3/16" over 10 ft. Sand high spots, fill low spots with self-leveler.
• Moisture test concrete subfloors with a calcium chloride or in-situ RH probe; install moisture barrier underlayment if needed.
• Tools needed: tap block, pull bar, spacers, utility knife (LVP) or miter saw (laminate / hardwood), tape measure, square.

Step 1: Plan the layout

Measure the room. Plan the first row to leave at least 1/4" expansion gap on all walls. Avoid narrow strips on the last row by adjusting the first-row width.

Step 2: First row

Start in the longest wall. Lay the first plank with the tongue side facing the wall (cut off the tongue if instructed). Place spacers along the wall.

Step 3: Click and tap

Insert each plank at a 30-degree angle into the previous one and tap down. Use a tap block to seat the joint - never hammer directly on the plank edge.

Step 4: Stagger end joints

Stagger end joints at least 8 inches between adjacent rows for visual balance and structural strength.

Step 5: Last row

Measure and rip-cut the last row to width, leaving the expansion gap. Use a pull bar to seat the final planks against the previous row.

Step 6: Trim

Remove spacers. Install quarter-round, T-molding or stair-nose trim to cover expansion gaps and transitions.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Skipping acclimation - causes gaps or buckling.
• Forgetting expansion gaps - causes peaking and warping.
• Hammering directly on plank edges - damages the locking system.
• Installing over uneven subfloor - causes squeaks and joint failure.

Need help? Email info@royalsfloors.com with photos of your project. We respond within one business day with installer recommendations or DIY tips.